Discover Bekaa Valley with Domaine Wardy

In this month's instalment of our 'Discover' series, we're heading to a country rich in one of the world's most fascinating, yet fraught, winemaking histories: Lebanon.

Lebanon's viticulture is among the oldest in the world. Israelite prophets and Ancient Phoenician scribes both mentioned its wine in writings dating back to the 8th century B.C. Through empires, occupations, and wars, this winemaking history has survived, and today the Bekaa Valley is widely considered Lebanon's homeland of quality wine, with producers improving quality, style, and renown in leaps and bounds.

The Bekaa Vally is regarded as Lebanon's home of wine 

Falls and rises

Wine has clearly been a part of the Bekaa Valley's identity for millennia; the ancient temple of Bacchus, god of wine, festivity and agriculture, still stands strong in the city of Baalbek and is one of the best-preserved Roman relics in the world. Although occupying Roman forces mainly used the fertile Bekaa Valley as a source of grain, its potential for growing quality grapes was clearly recognised from the off.

When the Ottoman Empire took over, Lebanon's viticultural development was put on hold. 'Modern' vineyards weren't planted until 1857, when French growers brought in cuttings of international varieties, and starte4d rejuvenating and redeveloping the land. Throughout many of the devastating conflicts that have affected Lebanon since then, including civil and world wars, a winemaking tradition has survived - although many wineries have had to survive a chronic state of uncertainty and strife.

The Temple of Bacchus in Baalbek

The traditions of Lebanon

Although international grape varieties and a clear French influence might still characterise Lebenese winemaking, the country's identity still remains strong in the Bekaa Valley. Traditional food and drink remains popular; Arak, a locally produced, aniseed-flavoured spirit, remains the drink of choice over wine. But, for those who do tread on the more vinous side, interest in indigenous Obeideh and Merwah wines is rising over the adopted Cinsault, Grenache, and Carignan. 

Food-wise, Sfiha is one of the Bekaa Valley's most popular dishes: a flatbread with a minced meat topping, usually lamb flavoured with tomato, onion, pine nuts, and spices. Also popular is the globally-loved tabbouleh - the origins of which are rumoured to lie in the surrounding mountains, where fresh herbs are readily available - alongside the ever-popular hummus and pita bread. The Tawlet Ammiq, in the Shouf Biosphere Reserve, is a market where local producers come together to share traditional recipes and techniques, and prepare delicious dishes for visiting tourists.

Sfiha, a popular dish in the Bekaa Valley

A fertile haven

The Bekaa Valley's soils are remarkably fertile, and ideal for agriculture. 40% of Lebanon's arable land lies here to this day, and the northernmost plains of the valley are still used as grazing land by roaming pastoral nomads and Bedouin tribes.

The Yammouneh Nature Reserve, surrounded by mountains on all sides, is home to the Yammouneh Lake, fed by the Spring of the Forty Martyrs, alongside natural freshwater ponds. Fresh fish restaurants line the western shores of the Lake Qaraoun, where tourists can enjoy stunning scenery from boat trips during the summer months. The Aamiq Wetlands are the largest freshwater reserve in the country, spanning 250ha of marshes, ponds, and willows, and gained UNESCO Biosphere Reserve Status in 2005. 

It's clear to see why viticulture has thrived here for so long, too. Despite the baking heat of Lebanese summers, many vineyards are planted on hills, up to heights of 1800m, which counteracts any risk of 'sun-baked' flavours in wines. The mountains surrounding the valley protect the vines from hot desert winds to the east, and maritime rains from the west, while the dry summers, cool nights and consistent rainfall mean grapes rarely ripen before September. The result? Incredible depth, strength, and intensity in the wines.

Lands here have been vital to agriculture for millennia

Domaine Wardy 

Domaine Wardy is one of Lebanon's most longstanding producers, having been one of just 14 producers registered in the country in 2000. They stand out for the freshness and lightness of their range, alongside the incredible Domaine Wardy story; while versions of this vary, they all start with one woman, Wardy Rose Moussallem. Great-grandmother of the current fourth generation owners, this remarkable woman was widowed at a young age. Rather than relinquish her husband's orchards and vineyards, she took them over, and became so successful that the land was renamed after her.

The four generations of winemakers who have run and worked at Domaine Wardy since then have all stayed true to their authentic Lebanese history and culture of winemaking. This isn't a winery looking to emulate Old World producers, but rather to celebrate the millennia of Lebanon's unique culture. The Wardy wines are all remarkably light, delicate, and elegant, standing in stark contrast to the historically big and bold style of Lebanese wines.