Discover Dao with Casa de Mouraz

The Dao region has undergone a remarkable transformation, from their reputation in the 70s and 80s for producing overblown, highly tannic Portuguese red wine with little character, to now being referred to as the ‘Burgundy of Portugal’.

The revolution of Portuguese wine in Dao

To understand this evolution, it is important to know that prior to joining the EU, Portuguese winemakers worked under strict wine laws which forced wine to be made in co-operatives. While nowadays ‘co-operative’ isn’t seen as such a  dirty word in the wine world, this particular style valued the quantity of grapes, rather than the quality. As a result, the wines tended to lack finesse, or any sense of place.

Things changed drastically in the 1990s, after Dao became recognised as a DOC and the newly relaxed Portuguese wine regulations encouraged a slew of independent winemakers to flock to the region to untap the full potential of Dao’s remarkable terroir, and champion native grape varieties.

The Vineyards of Casa de Mouraz in the Dao wine region

Understanding the terroir and climate of Dao

Sitting just south of the world-famous Douro region, Dao is the second oldest wine region in Portugal. There are a few key elements at play here which attribute to Dao’s renewed reputation for producing outstanding Portuguese wines of subtlety and finesse.

Firstly, the region enjoys a consistent climate. Enclosed by four mountain ranges on all sides, the region is barricaded from coastal rains and continental winds, which in turn creates a continental climate with moderate Mediterranean influences. Furthermore, the region experiences a dry growing season after high rainfall in throughout the winter. The majority of vineyards sit along the Dao River, the namesake for the region, which further moderates the temperatures in the valley.

The wines’ finesse is largely thanks to the high acidity of the grapes. Vines grow on the mountainous slopes between 200 – 900 metres elevation, which creates a dramatic difference in temperatures between day and night, of around 30 degrees Celsius. This highly desirable diurnal shift encourages excellent retention of acidity in the grapes, which is further emphasised by the region’s granitic soils. This combined with progressive winemaking techniques in the region, has built the region’s reputation for age-worthy, characterful Portuguese wines.

Redefining the terroir with Casa de Mouraz

Among the wave of winemakers eager to rebuild Dao’s reputation and dedicate themselves to discovering the essence of Dao wines, were Sara Dionisio and Antonio Ribeiro, owners of Casa de Mouraz in the heart of the wine region. In 2000, the pair left behind city life in Lisbon to return to Antonio’s birthplace, Mouraz, and continue his family legacy of holistic viticulture. It was always their mission to create wines in a manner which respected the land they farm and work with ecological integrity to create natural and biodynamic wines which are an authentic expression of the terroir.

A momentous step in this mission was their commitment to work under biodynamic winemaking preparations and practices in 2006. The Rudolf Steiner methods for biodynamic preparations promotes a deep connection between the animal kingdom and the plant kingdom, to eliminate the need for unnecessary chemical intervention.

Owners of Casa de Mouraz, Sara and Antonio

They later joined “La Renaissance des Appellations” or “The Return to Terroir” group – an organisation comprised of 175 winegrowers across 13 different countries, who aim to guarantee the full expression of the appellation through wine of a high qualitative level with great originality. Moderated by a committee of highly regarded winegrowers, the group guarantee a level of quality and authenticity both in vineyard and cellars, without the use of chemicals, to ensure a full expression of the AOC’s taste.

Sara and Antonio with their popular red Portuguese wine

A local’s travel guide to the Dao wine region

While it may be Portugal’s second largest region, a trip to Dao still feels like you’ve stumbled upon a hidden gem, relatively unknown to usual wine tourists. Nestled within a deeply traditional part of the country, the region offers natural, rural beauty and a rich cultural history. We spoke to Casa de Mouraz’s own Sara Dionisio to get a local’s guide to the best spots in the Dao wine region.

For Sara, Dao is unique for its diversity, biodiversity, food, and people. The region boasts extraordinary natural beauty between the rugged mountains and charming old towns. According to Sara, the unmissable local sights are Caramulo Mountain, Sao Pedro do Sul Hot Springs, and Serra da Estrela Mountain. To explore a little more off-the-beaten track, discover the Ecopista do Dao: a forest trail following an old railway line between Santa Comba Dao and Viseu. The full trail is 49km and best done by bike. What better way to finish a long scenic trail ride, than a visit to the historic town of Viseu?

The ancient town of Viseu is famed for its charming narrow streets, and a vibrant culture and food scene. When visiting the city, Sara returns to a few restaurants time and time again. Naturally, Sara is drawn to establishments who share her own dedication to sustainability. Flora is a small independent restaurant in the city, with an ever-evolving menu that changes with the seasons. Working closely with their suppliers, they are inspired by the quality of their produce, and their respect for nature. Also, in Viseu, De Raiz is another favourite for Sara. Their menu is inspired by traditional Portuguese food and their own family’s cooking, with a contemporary edge. A little further afield in Tondela, 3 Pipos offers a traditional Portuguese menu with a rustic style and has been a staple of Dao’s food scene since their opening in 1992.

The Dao wine region is a remarkable destination to uncover Portuguese wine, culinary culture, and natural beauty.