Discover Istria with Veralda
Continuing our Discover series, and encouraging some armchair travel, we’re introducing Istria in Croatia. Home to beautiful islands, ancient streets, and Veralda Winery, there’s no shortage of reasons to visit this beautiful corner of Croatia.
More about the region
Istria County is the westernmost part of Croatia, and includes the biggest part of the Istrian peninsula. The Istrian peninsula is situated at the north-eastern part of the Adriatic Sea, but it also poses as a bridge that connects the middle-European continental areas with the Mediterranean ones. Formerly a part of Italy until 1947, Istria County is also the most prominent Italian-speaking part of Croatia, and the Italian heritage is once again being returned to, with bilingual road signs and Italian language schools becoming more popular with cosmopolitan parents.
The winelands of Istria
Istria, or Istra in Croatian, is regarded as one of the most developed and diverse tourist destinations in Croatia. Plenty of hotel developments and sprawling campsites provide bases for the influx of sun-seekers. The region is especially popular with Italian tourists, who often pop over for a weekend visit. It has even been labeled as the “new Tuscany” by The Guardian, with its Venice-inspired food, Instagram-worthy blue ocean, and old fishing villages that has made it the new must-see for millennials.
The coastal climate in Istria is mostly Mediterranean, and becomes more continental inland. The summers are warm and sunny, and the winters are mild, making it a year-round escape for tourists from all over the world. Istria also offers plenty for nature lovers. Brijuni National park with its 14 islands is regarded as one of the most beautiful archipelagos in the Mediterranean.
One of the most beautiful panoramas in this part of Europe is visible from the top of the Ucka Nature Park. On the western slopes of Ucka, you’ll find an impressive canyon called Vela Draga. More into underground exploration? Istria also has a rich network of caves and pits, many of which are possible to visit without speleological knowledge and equipment, for example the Kingdom of Festini cave.
There are plenty of adventurous hikes to be had in Istria
Discover the food and wine
On the hunt for a top foodie destination? Look no further. Delicacies such as Istrian prosciutto, fantastic wine, and olive oil provide a perfect base for any meal. And truffles? Simply look out for restaurants with a ‘tartufo vero’ sign, which indicates that they meet the Istrian standards of handling and serving this black gold. Other specialities include Prsut (air-cured ham), Boskarin (Istrian ox), Fritule (doughnut balls dusted with powdered sugar and filled with rum and raisins), and Supa, a somewhat nutritional drink made from red wine mulled with olive oil, sugar, and black pepper.
A truffle dish at Zigante restaurant
Restaurants cover all spectrums of cuisines and price ranges, but when in Rome… There are a few highly rated restaurants that offer local cuisine, like Zigante, which features in the Michelin guide. They specialize in both black and white truffles, and these delicacies are dotted throughout the menu, featuring anything from steak to ice cream. For something a bit more down to earth, Toncic seems like the way to go, as it specializes in Mediterranean, European, and Croatian food. Regarded as an agritourism destination, on a working family farm, their menu offers lamb, roasted under a traditional dome, handcrafted pastas, Istrian prosciutto, and dishes featuring game meat, truffles, and wild asparagus. There is no menu, as they cook with what is fresh on the day. Add a glass of wine and it sounds like heaven!
Toncic restaurant in Istria
Speaking of wine, Istria is quickly developing as one of Croatia’s major wine regions. Although the wines are often made from the light skinned Malvasia, a popular Old World grape, there has been a movement towards a more New World style. Istria also has its own clone of Malvasia, called Malvazija Istarska. The white wines are often made in dry, modern, and refreshing styles, which are proving popular in the international market.
Veralda Winery
Veralda Winery is located in the most famous wine growing region of northern Istria, on the Buje hills that stretch from Buje to Brtonigla. Given that the family name, Visintin, is quite common in this region, the winery is named after the vineyard right next to the cellar. The family business was established in 1938, with vineyards and many other crops, until they started specializing in wine and olives.
At Veralda, the focus is on indigenous varieties such as Malvasia Istrian, Refošk and Teran, as they want to express the uniqueness and tradition of the region. The fact that these indigenous varieties are also less prone to diseases, make them especially suitable for organic production, which is done across the board, in both grape and olive production.
The Veralda vineyards
The 26 ha vineyards are positioned on south-facing hills, with optimal sun exposure, within 7km from the sea. The vines are planted in a deep layer of white soil, with a clayey-calcerous texture, optimal for retaining moisture. The soils also provide a certain minerality and salinity in the wines.
If you’re looking for another opportunity to try the local food, put Veralda on your list. They host tours and tastings in their cellar, including food and wine pairings. For a simpler option, choose a few wines, and enjoy it with prosciutto, salami, ombolo (pork chop meat marinated in wine, garlic and laurel), and cheese. Alternatively, splash out on a four-course meal, paired with their wines.