Modern day Cru Classe

By Matthew Correal

For the Le Bordeaux Bashers of this world, Cru Classe Bordeaux Chateaux, and their wines, are produced for an elite who can afford to purchase them and store them for lengthy periods of time either in bond or their cellars. They are considered inaccessible to the everyday drinker. A closed shop, if you will. They describe the wines as homogenous in style with little originality year on year.

Although there is no doubt some Chateaux rest on their 1855 classification traditions, there are also some others who are working tirelessly to produce wineries and wines that are modern in structure and style. The influence of the now retired, highly influential wine critic Robert M Parker Junior is waning, and Chateaux are looking to highlight originality in their wines in what is a saturated market.

What’s changing?

Innovation is widespread both in the vineyards and wineries. Terroir diversity is becoming more nuanced, and wines are being produced for earlier consumption. All of this within the backdrop of global warming which is having a considerable effect on the region as in most wine producing regions of the world.

Bricks & Mortar

Investment in the structures of wineries and cellars within the Cru Classe Bordeaux Chateaux is now at the forefront of sustainability. With a drive to cut carbon footprint, Chateau and their wineries are being renovated to show their green credentials. Solar panelling and the use of heat pumps to reduce emissions is on the rise along with use of materials sourced locally to carry out renovations (Catenac Brown using a Raw Earth approach to their development). Use of pruning residue to heat winery buildings is another green initiative along with many other aspects of the day to day running of a winery. These projects are being carried out whilst being sympathetic to the original historical buildings but looking to the future in a more sustainable way.

In the vineyard

Viticulture is changing dramatically compared to the turn of the millennium. Some forced by global warming, but also initiated by innovation and an increased knowledge of terroir diversity in the various vineyards and appellations. Use of pesticides and Bordeaux mixture (mixture of copper sulphate and quicklime used as a fungicide) is being reduced and replaced with an uptake in organic and biodynamic farming. Bordeaux now boasts an area of 19,952 ha (2020) of certified organic vines, only third in France to the Languedoc-Roussillon and Provence. An impressive statistic with its maritime climate.

Soils are being brought back to life with the introduction of cover crops over cleared vine rows and horses for ploughing are replacing tractors. Hedgerows and trees are being planted around the vineyards to minimise spread of diseases and to provide cooler areas to combat the warmer temperatures. Canopies are being left in place rather than stripped back to maximise sunlight exposure with a trend to now harvest earlier. These are just some of the vineyard initiatives aimed at enhancing fruit quality and fostering healthier vineyard ecosystems as Bordeaux adapts to a changing climate and responds to the increasing demand for sustainable products.

In the winery

Winemaking techniques are also evolving. Use of 100% new French oak is being replaced with small percentages of new barrels as well as the increased use of concrete and clay amphora. Vat rooms with plot-by-plot winemaking (Chateau Troplong-Mondot) are also on the rise with a better understanding of the terroir. Wines are being fermented at cooler temperatures with less use of pigeage (punching down) and remontage (pumping over) to reduce extraction. Whole bunch ferments are also on the rise. These approaches are leading to fresher, softer wines that can be consumed earlier. Bottling itself is moving forward which was highlighted by Chateau Pontet-Canet introducing a lighter bottle at this year’s En Primeur for the 2022 vintage. These are all techniques that would have been unheard of a couple of decades ago.

Fightback

In summary, the original Bordeaux pirates who coined the term Le Bordeaux Bashing are having less ammunition to attack the Chateau with. Developments in the fabric of the wineries and advancements in the understanding of the terroir are giving winemakers a new platform to produce their wines. Winemakers and consultants are willing to experiment more with winemaking techniques and do not feel confined to producing wines in a particular style which is in turn giving their wines originality.

There isn’t going to be a revolution overnight, as we know, change occurs at a snail's pace in the wine world. However, new wine preferences are being acknowledged and the Cru Classe Chateau are evolving to meet those demands. And as your premium wine distributor, we're excited to be at the forefront, working with producers who are embracing new challenges and opportunities to deliver exceptional wines for our customers!